Construction and management of vegetable greenhouses cannot save trouble
In the construction and management of vegetable greenhouses, some vegetable growers used surface soil to build the back wall when building the shed, and some used it when the organic fertilizer was not fully decomposed. These incorrect practices will affect the later vegetable production. Normal production will seriously reduce vegetable production and dead seedlings, so you must not just save trouble.
1. When building a new greenhouse, it is not possible to save trouble and directly embezzle the surface soil of the cultivated layer as the back wall soil.
At the beginning of greenhouse construction, a problem is prone to occur. In order to save labor, the engineering team that undertakes the construction of the greenhouse often digs out the original surface plough layer directly and uses it as the back wall soil. As a result, all the soil in the greenhouse becomes raw soil that has not grown plants.
Cultivated layer soil is formed after years of plant growth and farming management. It has a high content of quick-acting nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and middle and trace elements. There are many types and numbers of microorganisms in the soil. It has good water and air permeability and is more suitable for plant growth. However, the raw soil that is originally in the deep layer is just the opposite. Plants grow in it, and the things they want to eat are not suitable for the mouth, and the permeability of water and air is poor. The form absorbed by the root system eventually leads to a series of problems such as slow plant growth and yellowing of leaves due to the poor living environment of vegetables after planting. Therefore, when building a new vegetable greenhouse, it is necessary to supervise the construction team and move the surface cultivated soil to the side of the greenhouse first, and then move the mellow soil back to the greenhouse after the construction of the greenhouse is completed.
Second, the map saves trouble and does not decompose farm manure in advance
In fact, many people know the necessity of applying fully decomposed farm manure, but many vegetable farmers are unwilling to ferment and decompose farm manure first. There are two reasons, one is that it is too troublesome to ferment and decompose, and the other is the psychology of luck and improvisation.
There are two ways to solve this problem. One is to directly purchase commercial-type decomposed organic fertilizer, and the other is to find a more convenient method of fermentation and decomposing. Farmers often prefer to spend money on chemical fertilizers instead of organic fertilizers. There are two reasons. One is that they don’t know what kind of organic fertilizers to buy, and the other is that they think the cost of buying commercial organic fertilizers is too high.
There are a lot of commercial organic fertilizers, but the quality is also very different. How to buy suitable high-quality organic fertilizers is really knowledgeable. First of all, try to look at the brand as much as possible. The reputation is good and the quality is more reliable. Then it depends on the nature of the fertilizer, which type of organic matter, such as seaweed, chicken manure or organic matter plus biological bacteria, etc., especially chicken manure, you must choose branded and formal packaging. Before buying, you can also smell it. If there is a bad smell, it means that the fermentation is not good. If there is a pungent smell, it may be that some chemicals have been added. These are not optional. Take a closer look with your eyes and grab a hand to check its moisture content, particle uniformity, etc. It should be noted that high-quality organic fertilizers that are truly industrialized have low impurities and concentrated nutrients. They do not have to be like chicken manure. One mu of land requires five or six cubic meters. It should be applied as appropriate according to the product description and the period of use. However, the cost per unit area is not high.
As for how to make fermentation easier, first choose the warm and drier seasons in spring and autumn, and it is not convenient for it to be too cold in winter and rainy in summer. Then, dry the chicken manure in the air for a few days, and then add the crushed straw, biological bacteria and water in proportion. You can also add superphosphate or urea, or layer or mix them, pile them together, and use soil. Mud cover, without plastic film, because plastic film is not conducive to ventilation and can easily lead to excessive temperature in the pile. After the smell of farmyard fat disappears and the texture becomes dry and loose, it means that the decomposing is successful. The key to save trouble here is to add biological fermentation bacteria, which is equivalent to adding yeast powder to our daily steamed buns and noodles. The fermentation speed and effect of farm manure will be faster and better. It should be noted that the dried chicken manure does not mean that it has been fermented and decomposed.
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