She cuts the grapes in winter

Grape pruning in winter is an important measure for grape shaping. The correctness of winter pruning is related to the future. Especially the grape production and fruit quality and labor intensity in the coming year will directly affect economic benefits. So how does grape pruning work? This edition specializes in sorting the grape's winter cutting techniques as follows for reference by farmers.

Grapevine must be aware before cutting

Determine the expected output in the coming year. Expected yields are determined based on species, age, tree vigor, optimum panicle weight, and grain weight. Ordinary high-quality orchards are determined to be 2500~4500 pounds/mu; the first year's results are determined to be 1500~3000 pounds/mu.

Determine the amount of mother and bud eyes. According to species, shelf type, tree age, tree vigor, fullness of shoots, shoots, growth status of adjacent trees, and flower bud differentiation characteristics of the varieties, the resulting mother shoots and buds were determined. Victoria, ruby-nuclear, Wutai, No.8, the first year of sapling, horizontal scaffolding generally yields about 1800 mother trees per mu, leaving 3 to 4 buds per mother tree, and 6000 per mu. bud. Red earth, summer black and other species, high, wide, vertical or "V" shaped, the results of the second year of the above tree, generally leaving 1200 to 1500 results mothers per mu, leaving 8 to 10 results each mother Buds, 10,000 to 15,000 effective shoots per mu. Beauty, finger and other varieties, high, wide, vertical or "V" shaped, the results of the second year above the tree, generally leaving 1500 to 2000 results per mu master, leaving 10 to 12 buds each result mother , 18,000 to 24,000 effective shoots per mu.

Grape winter cut to "because of the tree"

1. By pruning and cultivating a good tree-shaped structure, the branches are evenly and reasonably distributed on the surface of the frame, and the sunlight is fully accepted to achieve "one long and two short." The so-called "long" is the extension of the head of the tree to be long and easy to be erected, so that it is easy to cover the surface as early as possible; the so-called "two shorts" is the result of the branch, the preparation of the branch, should be properly left short, to ensure the results of the annual parts.

2. Trim according to the growing condition of the tree. For trees that are more prosperous, lighter shears are used to ease tree vigor; for trees that are weaker, shearing is performed to increase tree vigor.

3, different varieties, different pruning methods. The results of the base of the mother is easy to form a variety of flower buds, such as summer black, flame-free seed, Kyoho, Huta, etc., suitable for 1 to 2 buds of the short tip pruning; red earth, suitable for 3 to 4 buds in the long pruning. Fruits that are not easy to bear fruit, such as Kreisson, and the Americans, have to trim and leave 5-7 buds.

4, different cultivation posture, pruning methods are different. Under general cultivation of postures, such as scaffolding, H-shaped frames, etc., the flower buds at the base are better, and the short branches are used for trimming. Straw tendrils, which tend to cause leggy growth and over-prosperity, are generally suitable for mid-to-long pruning. (Yang Junping)

Science winter cut grape yield

Grape winter cuts are generally conducted from December to January. Premature loss of large amounts of nutrients will cause the tree to lose its vitality in the coming year. It will be too late to cause "injury flow", resulting in debilitating or even dead trees.

The pruning method is generally divided into long shoots, middle shoots, short shoots, and long, middle, and short shoots combined with pruning. Tip shoots leave more than 8 buds. Applicable to grow vigorously and the results of the mother branch is not easy to produce fruit branch species, such as longan, white chicken heart, milk, etc., but leave ready to branch, updated every year. Pruning in the shoot leaves 4 to 7 buds, suitable for medium-growth varieties. Pruning of short shoots left about 3 buds, suitable for weak growth potential, the general results of the base of the mother branches prone to the results of the varieties of branches. The combination of long, medium, and short tip pruning can use the result of the buds that are the result of a good part of the mother branch, delaying the rise of the result site while maintaining the robustness of the branch and regulating the amount of results. When the main vines (extension branches) and perennial vines are renewed, long shoots are often used; in order not to raise the result area and the lower baldness, the middle and short shoots are trimmed for the resulting mother shoots and ready shoots, respectively. No matter what kind of pruning method, only a close combination of updated pruning can obtain a bumper year after year. After 3 to 5 years of general results, we must pay attention to the update.

Update method 1 Results Single branch update. When pruning in winter, no preparatory branches are left, leaving only the resulting mother shoots. After the spring of germination, select the new shoots that grow well and cultivate them as cranberries. In winter pruning, all upper ends will be cut, and the reserved vines will be cut as Result mother branch. This method leaves few articles, is airy and light-transmitting, is easy to manage, and is suitable for varieties with strong branches. 2 Results Branches are updated. As a result, the mother branch was cut to the required length, and then at the base of this mother branch, a well-developed shoot was selected and two buds were cut for the preparation. The results of the next year's results on the mother branch resulted in the branch blossoming, and the new shoots sprouted. When the winter shear was used, the result could be cut off from the vine branches. The two vines sprouted from the ready branches and the front one was the result of the next year. Mother branch, one of the rear part as a preparation branch, and so on. The advantage of this method is that it is easy to cultivate new shoots and is suitable for varieties with low germination rate. However, due to the increase in new shoots, mutual shade, poor ventilation and light transmission. 3 perennial vines update method. Whole plant renewal: When all the vines lose their production capacity, the old vines are removed from the base once and reconstructed using the underground buds. This method has a great impact on production and is used as little as possible. Local renewal: When the old vines are not normal, the annual sticks sent from the base are replaced in place of the old vines. The small amount of updating of this method is the main measure for maintaining stable production.

Pruning points 1 grape pith part of the large, small organizations loose, after cutting the moisture easily cut by the mouth, so close to cut mouth buds dry or frozen, the best section above 2 to 3 cm cut, section A short variety can be cut at a section above the bud. 2 When thinning or shearing, try to avoid causing relative wounds. It is best to make several wounds evenly separated on the vines. If you loosely cut, you must keep 0.8 cm of stubs. Do not cling to the vine. 3 Cut off the disease, pests, remove tendrils and tie.

Grapes winter pruning simple operation "four-step method"

To branch and cut branches, cut dead branches, diseased shoots, and legged shoots must be cut off. Grape vines are loose and their pith is large, and water and nutrients are easily lost. When the shoots are trimmed, they should be cut at 3 to 5 centimeters or cut at the upper end of the clip.

The thinning and thinning is performed on the main vines in accordance with a certain distance, and the resulting branches and groups are completely removed from the base. During the thinning process, the cuts should be controlled at about 1 cm from the base. Do not cut under the base. After the stump is dry, cut it from the base.

Select the update method to trim the results of the parent branch 1 single branch update method. During winter cutting, only the mother tree branches are left without preparations, and two new shoots are left during the growing period of the next year. The upper shoots are used as the result, and the lower shoots are used as the next year's ready-to-produce branches, and the hearts are picked in due course. In the second year of winter, cut the branches that have been fruited on the upper part, and trim the branches of the lower preparations for short branches or middle and long branches. 2 two-branch update method. In winter, one result site leaves two results mother branches, the upper branch carries out the middle and long tips trimming, as the result branches, the lower branches perform short shoots (generally leaving two buds) trimmed as a preparation branch. In the second year of winter shear, the branches with superior nodes were cut off, and the lower branches remained one long and one short, circulating in a circular motion.

Branch 1 short shoots. Leave 1 to 4 knots, suitable for the growth of moderate or weak varieties, and the annual growth period is shorter, the summer pruning more stringent vineyards. 2 shoots. Leave 5 to 7 knots, suitable for strong growth potential varieties, growth potential weakness of mature trees. 3 long shoots. Leave 8 to 12 knots, suitable for varieties with strong growth potential or prosperous growing tendency, as well as trees with relatively thick summer trimming and no fruiting branches before flowering.

Grape winter cut six issues should pay attention

Protecting the splicing buds The short twigs should be cut at 3 to 4 cm on the excised buds. If the internodes are short, cut them in the front section of the clippings. Clipping should be smooth to prevent cracking, so as not to affect the germination of buds.

When sparse branchlets are to be left, short branch sparse branchlets can be removed from the base. Sparse branchlets should be short-pile, and the shortest piles should be truncated in the second year. At the same time, it is necessary to avoid thinning wounds, so as not to affect the smooth flow of tissue.

When avoiding drooling on the main vine, avoid mouth-to-mouth injury as much as possible so as not to severely weaken the growth of shoots above the wound.

It is necessary to reasonably determine the branch lengths of the clipping length clipping must be fully matured. In areas where there is space, the branches can be kept long enough to fill the shelves as quickly as possible. The varieties with high growth rate and low basal shoot bud rate should adopt medium and long tips for pruning; moderate or weak growth, and varieties with high basal shoot bud rate should adopt medium and short shoot pruning.

If the branch is updated, if the single branch is used for updating, the short-tap of the resulting mother branch can be trimmed, leaving no preparatory branch. In the new branch obtained from the resulting mother branch in the second year, the result of the upper branch is used to remove the inflorescence from the lower branch. Prepare the branches. Remove the branches that have been produced during the winter cut and prune the shoots again. If two-branch renewal is used, one result mother branch and one reserve branch are left in each result part, and the upper parent branch is still trimmed by the middle and long tips, and the lower part of the preparation branch is left with two to three buds.

The perennial renewal of perennial vines, which have weaker apexes and still have a good result at the back end, recedes into strong, growing shoots. For the perennial branches with good branches and bald behind, the vines can be renewal and new plant results can be cultivated. For perennial vines that are weakly growing, if they have the ability to produce results, and instead of sprouting, the basal part of the vine can be cut short, and then the old vines can be straightened to help weaken the vine. Perennial old vines should be cut off if they have no results.

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