Fruit tree winter shears must be protected
Inadequate protection of fruit tree shears will result in poor wound healing, severe rot infection and damage to the tree. In most cases, rot occurs most often at the cutting edges.
How to protect the cutting saw
Special attention must be paid to everything from pruning techniques to cutting and sawing.
1. Try to avoid trimming during absolute low temperature. The so-called absolute low temperature period refers to the severe cold weather of 39, 49. Trimming at absolute low temperature will cause frostbite of cuts, affect nutrient transport in the coming year, and be susceptible to rot and deficiency.
2. When pruning, pay attention to the number and position of the larger cutting sawn of the whole tree. In particular, there should not be too many large wounds on the trunk, otherwise it will affect the tree vigour.
3. Try not to leave piles when going to the big branches. If the pile is left too long, it will easily rot inward from the sawn part until it spreads to the trunk part. Some people think that leaving the pile longer and rotting it for a while and removing it will help protect the trunk. This idea is wrong. It is not easy to cause decay without leaving piles, why do we need to leave piles?
4, cut the saw mouth to be smooth. No burrs should be left, especially the large cutting edges should be smoothed with a sharp knife to facilitate healing.
5. When using scissors to sparse branches, be sure to use a large blade. The crushing of the small blade on the remaining branch is easy to cause rot; when the small blade is on, the crushing on the removed branch, the cut of the remaining branch is smooth.
6. For fruit trees with rot and viral mosaic disease, use different shears when pruning. The shears used on diseased trees and then used on healthy trees will cause cross infection of diseases.
7. After cutting, the blade must be smeared for protection. This time the medication is very important. Cutting and applying wounds to close the wound can not only prevent water loss, but also prevent the infection of rot germs and promote healing.
8. The wound is protected with clay. Larger wounds are glued with colloid-like soft mud, and then wrapped with plastic film to prevent the invasion of pests and diseases, reduce the loss of water dispersion in the wound, and facilitate healing.
9. The wound on the trunk or big branch can also be bridged in the spring of the next year to connect up and down to promote healing.
Second, make good use of the cutting saw
1. Adjust the branch direction. According to the growth space of the branches, appropriately shorten the buds under the cutting mouth to change the growth direction of the original branches and grow quickly; for the back branches or migratory branches, they can be changed to oblique branches or new ones by retracting As a result, the branch group weakened its vegetative growth advantage, eased tree vigor, promoted reproductive growth, and flowered early.
2. Adjust the result branch group. For overgrown main branches or branch groups, sparse branches and more wounds at the base, weakening growth potential, and reducing growth to control branch group growth; on the back, sides, or other branches of thinning or migration When branching, if a large space is formed after all dredging, stubble dredging can be used. That is, leave 0.5-2 cm branches at the base of the thinned branch, and let small branches germinate at the base to occupy space.
3. Clever use of sprouts on the back to prevent trunk sunburn. When dredging the large branches on the back, if the surrounding area is too empty, it is easy to sunburn the main branches in summer, and some short piles are intentionally left in winter to allow them to germinate in the coming year. These branches can play a role in shielding the sun, which is equivalent to putting a "sunshade" on the main branch.
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